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Want to walk inside a glacier in the French Alps? If your initial answer was “heck yes,” I’m with you! Mer de Glace in Chamonix is an incredibly unique opportunity to get up close and personal with the ancient ice.

But with that said, aside from Aiguille du Midi, I would venture to guess that this is the busiest attraction in Chamonix. At least, that was our experience while visiting the Mer de Glace ice grotto during mid-morning in July. And since I just made that claim, I decided to quickly fact check myself...

Yes, the Mer de Glace is the largest glacier in France and the most visited glacier in the entire world. Crazy!

Because it is such a massive tourist attraction, you might be wondering if fighting the crowds is actually worth it. Does walking inside a glacier live up to the hype, or is it just a tourist trap? I visited over the summer to find out for myself. Here is everything you need to know to plan your own trip, plus my honest review on whether you should add it to your Chamonix, France itinerary. Let's go!

Table of Contents

Introduction
Where is Mer de Glace in Chamonix?
How to Get There (2 Best Options)
5 Essential Things to Know Before Visiting Mer de Glace
Honest Review: Is it Worth the Hype?
FAQ

Where is Mer de Glace in Chamonix?

The Mer de Glace, which translates beautifully to "Sea of Ice," is located on the northern slopes of the Mont Blanc massif. It stretches for about 7 kilometers and is 200 meters thick. It’s truly a massive river of ice - and one that is devastatingly disappearing before our eyes.

It is situated just above the Chamonix valley. Because of its location, this spot is super accessible compared to many other alpine glaciers that require all-day or even multi-day treks to reach. You can see parts of it from some trails around the Chamonix area, but to really experience it, you have to head up to the Montenvers top station.

How to Get There (2 Best Options)

Getting to the glacier is actually very straightforward. You have two main ways to reach the site, depending on how much energy you want to use up, and what kind of views you're after.

Option One: Montenvers Train + Gondola Down to the Glacier

This is by far the most popular and easiest method. You catch the famous red Montenvers train from the station in Chamonix. The train ride itself is very scenic, but slow. It chugs up the mountainside on a rack-and-pinion railway, gaining elevation quickly. As you climb, you get sweeping views of the valley below.

Once you arrive at the Montenvers station (1913m), you aren't actually at the ice yet. From here, you need to take a small gondola down toward the glacier surface. Then, after the gondola ride, there are roughly 580 steps to walk down to reach the entrance of the ice cave.

Ticket cost: If you want the full experience, including the (round-trip) train + gondola rides, visit to the exhibition centers, and entrance to the ice cave, a ticket is €49.70 for adults. Buy your tickets online in advance to save time.
Important note: If you’ve already purchased a MONT BLANC Multipass for your Chamonix trip, this excursion is included in that pass. No need to pay twice!
Hours: During the summer season, the Montenvers train runs daily (weather-dependant) from roughly 8:00am to 5:00pm. This does change slightly month-to-month, so be sure to check the official schedule before your trip.

The journey in summary: take the Montenvers train up from Chamonix, then take the gondola partway down, then hike down the stairs to finally reach the glacier caves.

Option Two: Hike the Grand Balcon Nord Trail from Aiguille du Midi Mid-Station

If you’re up for a hike, this is the way to do it. You can start by taking the lift up to the Plan de l'Aiguille (the mid-station for Aiguille du Midi). From there, you traverse the Grand Balcon Nord trail.

This trail is incredibly scenic and relatively flat for an alpine hike, though it does have some rocky sections. It cuts across the mountainside and provides insane views of the valley and the peaks above. Eventually, the trail leads you right to the Montenvers station. From there, you can take the gondola down to the ice cave just like the train passengers do.

This is a perfect option if you want to combine some hiking with sightseeing. You can simply hike one way towards the Mer de Glace (and a bonus: this is the easier direction!) and then take the train back down into town once you’re finished.

>> Save my Grand Balcon Nord trail custom route map on AllTrails (seen below) for your own trek.

*Panoramic mountain views above the glacier*

5 Essential Things to Know Before Visiting Mer de Glace

Before you rush off to buy your ticket, there are a few things you should know about visiting Mer de Glace. It’s not quite as simple as stepping off the train and onto the ice, though I would say that this is still an incredibly accessible glacier excursion. Also, our changing climate does continue to dramatically alter the experience.

1. There are A LOT of Stairs

I cannot stress this enough. Even if you take the train and the gondola, you still have to put in some physical effort. The gondola drops you off partway down the valley, but the glacier has receded significantly over the years.

To bridge the gap between the gondola station and the actual ice, you have to walk down a long series of metal stairs. As of 2026, there are about 580 steps to get down. Yes, more and more steps continue to be added as the glacier recedes. And don't forget, you have to walk back up them afterward! If you have mobility issues or really hate stairs, this might be a dealbreaker.

2. The Ice Cave is Re-Carved Every Year

The main attraction here is the "Grotte de Glace," which is the ice cave. This is a tunnel carved directly into the living glacier. Inside, you'll usually find ice sculptures and color-changing lights illuminating the blue ice.

Because the glacier is constantly moving (it flows like a very slow river), the cave shifts and deforms over time. Consequently, they have to re-carve the tunnel and sculptures every single year. It is a massive undertaking. This means the cave you see one summer will inevitably be different from the next.

3. It Gets Extremely Crowded

As I mentioned in the introduction, this is the most visited glacier in the world. If you go in the middle of the day during peak summer months (July and August), expect long queues of visitors. You will wait for the train, wait for the gondola, and shuffle along the stairs with hundreds of other people.

If you want a quieter visit, try to catch the very first train of the morning. The light is beautiful and you will (usually) beat the tour groups. Ideally, do this on a weekday in non-peak months for the best experience.

4. Signs of Climate Change are Everywhere

This visit is as educational as it is scenic. As you walk down the stairs to the ice cave, look at the rock walls beside you. You may see the signs marking the level of the glacier in previous years - 1990, 2005, etc.

It is shocking to see how high the ice used to be compared to where it is now. This experience gives you a very tangible representation of how quickly our alpine environments are changing. It's a sobering reminder of just how fragile these glaciers really are in the face of climate change, and how future generations may never get to see the incredible icy landscapes.

5. Pack a Warm Layer, Even in Summer

It might be 25°C (77°F) and sunny down in Chamonix, but up at 1900m, the air is cooler. And once you step inside the glacier? It is downright cold. You are surrounded by solid ice. Bring a warm layer like a fleece or a light puffer jacket!

Also, wear enclosed sturdy shoes. The metal stairs can be super slippery, and the floor inside the cave is wet ice, even with the mats they place down on the ground. Sandals or flip-flops are an absolute no-go here. Sneakers are fine! As long as they’re comfy and have some traction.

My Honest Review: Is it Worth the Hype?

So, the big question remains. Is it worth it? Well honestly, that depends entirely on what you are looking for. Here's my two cents...

Who this glacier visit is for:
Mer de Glace is perfect for people who have not seen or set foot inside a glacier before. Walking inside a tunnel of blue ice is a super unique experience, and one that I think everyone should have in their lifetime!

This spot is also worthwhile if you are passionate about climate change - you'll be seeing a glacier that is rapidly disappearing and may not exist for much longer. It's a chance to witness geological history before it changes forever.

Who might want to skip it:
If you are looking for a wild, untouched nature experience, this isn't it. The ice caves area is highly developed, it's usually very crowded, and feels a bit like a theme park attraction with the lights and sculptures. There are far better, less "controlled" glacier experiences out there if you are willing and able to hike further.

If you’re someone like me who has spent a fair share of time around glaciers (like my time exploring many of Alaska's glaciers), then my top recommendation would be to simply enjoy this glacier from a top-down vantage point. The view from above is gorgeous, and lets you appreciate the scale of the "Sea of Ice" valley without the crowds of the cave. Specifically, the “Le Signal Forbes” viewpoint is perfect for this. You get the grandeur without the stairs or the long queues.

*Looking down at the glacier from the top Montenvers Station*

FAQ

Q: Can you visit Mer de Glace year-round?

A: Mostly, yes. The Montenvers train runs year-round, giving you access to the views. However, the ice cave itself is typically closed for a period in the fall - early winter (usually October through December) for maintenance. Always check the official website for current opening dates and times before you go.

Q: Is the Mer de Glace glacier disappearing?

A: Sadly, yes. It's receding rapidly due to global temperature rises. The number of stairs added each year to reach the ice is proof of how much volume it loses annually. Scientists predict it will retreat considerably more in the coming decades. Which, honestly, is devastating.

Q: Can I bring my dog to Mer de Glace?

A: Yes, dogs are allowed on the Montenvers train and the site, as long as they are kept on a leash. However, taking a dog down the metal grated stairs to the ice cave will likely be very uncomfortable for their paws, so you might want to consider leaving them behind for this one excursion (if you plan to head all the way down to the ice caves).